For most preppers, safety and food security is of paramount importance. Having your own food supply during an emergency or crisis situation will keep you and your family self-sufficient even during the toughest times. How do you build your own stockpile for survival?
Here are 5 things you should know about buying food to stockpile.
- What Is Your Goal?
Before buying food to stockpile, you will need to set your goal. How much stock do you intend to buy? How long do you want the supplies to last? Ideally, your food and water supply should sustain you for at least 72 hours but for peace of mind during an emergency, go beyond the bare minimum.
Start by writing a list of foodstuff that can sustain you and your family for three days. Once you have achieved that goal, keep building until you have enough supplies to last a few months.
- Decide On A Stockpile Budget
When buying food to stockpile, it is important to have a budget from the beginning. Determine how much you can afford and how much money you can spare from your weekly shopping to buy food to stockpile.
Make your budget conservative and reasonable. Avoid getting into debt. Know when to stop. There are times when you will have to pass up a great deal to avoid wasting money. Remember to go over your budget before you start shopping. You can always take advantage of store sales and product rebate offers.
- Invest In Nutritionally Dense Foods
Sometimes, consuming food from a stockpile can get tiring and boring. This is why you will need to invest in a stock that includes nutritionally dense and tasty foods. Consider your family’s taste and make a list of ingredients they will enjoy. Some of the foods to buy include; multivitamins, dried fruits, cereal, canned meat and chicken, nuts and peanut butter.
Don’t buy food items that your family doesn’t eat. Don’t buy food that will go bad before you eat it. Check all the expiry dates and preservatives used to ensure that your food is safe for consumption for the entire period you will need it.
- Prioritize On Water
Water is life. Without it, our bodies cannot survive for more than three days. Buy enough water. You should stockpile and safely store at least two weeks supply of water for every individual in your house.
Commercially bottled water is the best choice since it is safe and does not require sanitizing or disinfecting any further. However, it is advisable to consume or replace the water every six months.
- Prepare Space For Your Stockpile
Stockpiling on food and water will take up a lot of space in your pantry. Before you head out shopping, ensure that you clean and prepare the space. If you intend to store the food in the basement, ensure that your basement is cool and dry.
Remember, seepage, mice or mold can make your entire stock of food unsafe. You can invest in additional storage shelving or identical boxes that take up minimum space.
Millions of people around the world have to face the trauma and consequences of an unforeseen disaster every year, and tens of thousands lose their lives.
You can rarely predict or avoid a disaster happening but you can often improve your odds of survival.
Ammo.com have put together a comprehensive guide for emergency preparation and looks at key reasons why you need to prepare for an emergency and what steps you can take to prepare.
The guide can show ready you are if disaster strikes.
Here are a couple of examples of adding paracord to water bottles.
For cleaning paracord on a water bottle, hat, or paracord bracelet, I use a little anti-bacterial liquid soap and an old soft bristle toothbrush to get the cord clean, then let air dry or I’ll sometimes take ’em in the shower with me to get everything done in one trip, lol… 🙂
Or, I just throw my wrapped thermos/cup into the dishwasher. I’ve had it for about 5 months now and it hasn’t been a problem.
The guys at the Sietch have a great little idea here, making their own solar thermal collector with spare parts and trash readily available in any scrap yard worldwide. This would be good if the SHTF and we had to live off the grid. Enjoy. Let us know if you build your own.
Drill (with both drill bits and screw bits)
A saw (a simple hand saw will do)
A pane of glass.
The back of a small refrigerator.
12 feet of air pump hose used in fish tanks
Backing material (we used an old door mat)
A box of wood screws
Role of duct tape
Angle Cutter (or hack saw)
Time:This project took about 3 hours of constructions time. It took a couple weeks to find all the parts.
Now onto the project. The first thing we did was collect all of the parts.
Our local dump has a coolant removal program that has refrigerators and dehumidifiers that they remove old freon from. With this in mind I found the perfect heat collector. The back of a fridge is basically a heat dispersal system, with a slight modification is can be used to collect large amounts of heat.
Make sure that the freon, or other coolant has been removed, and cut the grill off at the base, near the large coolant holder.
There was an old couch that had been run over by one of the large dump plows, the inside wood was the perfect size for the frame.
I found a pane of glass and an old rubber door mat that made the perfect backing and front.
The glass was a real find, and may be the only part of the panel that may need to be purchased. Make sure your glass is big enough to fit over your collector and have enough room to attach it to the frame.
The door mat was HUGE, so I had to cut it in half. Funny thing seems there was a lot of nasty black goo, and a metal sheet in the middle. Who knew. Remove the metal plate (or cut it in half as well) and leave the goo.
Once The backing was cut to size, it was time to start building the frame.
As you can see I sort of built the frame around the collector, leaving enough backing to hold it all together.
The frame is held on by building a similar frame on the back and driving large wood screws through the front frame, the backing and into the back frame.
I added some foil to the backing. The reason for this is that counter to what you would think, you do not want the backing to warm up. You only want the collector to absorb heat (it was so nice of the fridge company to paint it black for us). The foil will take any sun that was not absorbed by the collector on the first pass and bounce it back over the collector for another try at absorption. The glass cover will keep all the heat inside the panel for further absorption.
Light can pass through glass, but heat can not.
Notice how duct tape was used on the inside to seal all cracks, you could use caulk but I didn’t have any so I used the cheapest option. It worked well, and held the foil in place.
Next we cut some notches for the entry and return ports to the collector.
Note again the use of duct tape to seal cracks.
I got some air pump hose from the local fish store and attached them to the end of the entry and return ports.
The duct tape was applied to make sure it was a tight fit, it was later removed as it was not needed.
Next we attached the collector to the backing, using the mounting brackets that came on the fridge and some duct tape. If you wanted you could use some screws and wood, but I found the tape and the natural tension of the construction to be enough to hold it in place.
Lastly we attach the glass to the top. This serves to trap all the infrared radiation from the sun inside our panel where our collector will absorb it. Again light can pass through glass, but heat can not.
As you can see simple duct tape is enough to hold it on. I would recommend using some sort of mounting bracket however as after a couple days in the sun the tape started to droop allowing the glass to slide off. A few screws would solve this, but I am cheap so I just put new tape on.
Set your panel up at an angle so that it catches the most sun.
Here is the gross part, put one end of the hose into your bucket of cold water, and make sure it is at the bottom of the bucket, next grab the return hose and start sucking. That’s right, unfortunately you have to prime the panel by getting some water into it. This can be done without getting water in your mouth, but inevitably I sucked just a little too hard and ended up with a mouth full of nasty water. I would recommend having a friend do this part. 🙂
Set your cold water bucket (source) up higher than your warm water bucket (return) and the whole thing will gravity siphon. Due to the design of this collector (both ports return to the same location on the panel) it will not thermo siphon. For that to happen I would need to cut the long return pipe and have it exit at the top of the panel.
A word of warning, this panel works VERY WELL. We tested it on a very sunny day and within seconds the water coming out of the panel was hot enough TO SCALD. I burned my fingers. This very hot water is only formed when the water inside the panel is allowed to sit for about a minute without moving. If the water is moving (do to the gravity siphon) the water exiting the return pipe is about 110 degrees, and while hot, will not burn you.
The water does not flow through the panel very fast (as the pipes are very small) but that is sort of a good thing as it allows the water to heat up a lot on its journey through the collector. It does take a while to heat up a 5 gallon bucket of water, I ended up building an insulated return bucket that was all black and sealed on the top except for the port where the water tube enters. This kept the returned hot water hot long enough to be of use.
I let this guy run for a couple of hours one hot sunny day and heated up a five gallon bucket of cold water (measured at 70 degrees F) to over 110 degrees F. The temp that day was about 76 degrees F. If the water is allowed to sit in the panel for several minutes and then forced out (by blowing in one of the hoses) the water was measure at 170 degrees F. All in all we are much happier with the performance (and cost) of this panel. It performs much better than the previous one.
Our next modifications to this design will be to alter the return port so that it will thermo siphon, in this way the return hose can be fed into the source bucket and the water will continually circulate in the panel getting hotter and hotter. We have also talked about adding mirrors to the panel to concentrate more heat. Our goal is to boil water. This entire project cost less than five dollars, as I already had the screws, and the duct tape. The only thing I purchased was the air hose, which cost $3.76.
Enjoy the hot water.
If you’ve been using old newspapers and dangerous amounts of lighter fluid to get your fires going, believe me, there is a better way. Even better, much of this can be done with leftover materials most already have sitting around the house. Well, what sort of materials are we talking?
Wood chips are easy enough to find, especially if you live in a heavily wooded area. These shavings can come from cutting down trees, trimming trees, or just general woodworking – assuming you have some of those tools around the house. One of the best materials to use is easily sawdust, as all of your woodworking projects will leave you with an abundance of the stuff. All your drilling and sawing will create more than you’d first imagine. Also, sawdust is much safer and wildly more effective than what most people generally use when attempting to start a fire. Discover on housetipster.com how sawdust has several uses ranging from fixing awful oil and gas spills to killing weeds. It’s surprising how beneficial this material can be for solving particular issues around the home.
First-rate fire starters
- Pack sawdust into paper muffin cups, above, or a cardboard egg carton.
- Melt paraffin wax in a double boiler, pour over the sawdust and allow to cool.
- Slow-burning when lit, these hotcakes make great starters for a fireplace or campfire
A great way to use up scrap wood chips, shavings and sawdust to make these easy and effective fire starters. Be sure to use paraffin wax not candle wax, as it is food grade and burns completely.
Now that you have these hotcakes, they are easily brought along on camping trips or a simple walk to the backyard fire pit. Folks will be wondering just what in the world you’re using to start your fires so effectively. They’ll be shocked when you tell them you packed wood chips, shavings and sawdust into muffin trays and made the most efficient fire starter around. They’ll be begging for your secret, which, is simply, castoff materials that most take for granted.
source: Wood Magazine
I have to say almost anyone could actually DO this. With basic modifications depending on your downspout or gutters, this is perfect. Easy DIY Rain Water Collection system. For a more advanced version click here.
Step 1: Parts and Tools
1 32 Gallon Rubbermaid Roughneck trashcan – From my garage
1 roll of window screen – On hand from fixing the patio door last summer
1 90 foot hose – $15.00
1 Nozzle set – $3.00
1 set of 3 conduit locknuts – $0.99
2 1/2 inch boiler drains – $9.48
4 flat metal washers – $2.10
4 rubber washers – $5.32
Total with tax – $38.22
Step 2: Attaching the faucets
2. Thread the metal washer onto the faucet first then the rubber washer. The rubber washer should be andwiched between the metal washer and the side of the trash can.
3. Place the faucet through the hole you cut and put another rubber washer on the inside of the trash can.
4. Use the pliers to help screw the locknut on tightly. The tighter you get it screwed on the less likely you are to have leaks.
5. Repeat this process for the second faucet several inches form the top of the trash can. While a second faucet probably isn’t absolutely necessary it can act as an overflow valve.
Step 3: Attaching the screen
2. Begin stapling the screen to the top of the trash can. Be sure the can is clean inside before you staple it closed.
3. Use the scissors to trim off the excess screen.
Step 4: Making the lid
2. Reattach the curvy but at the bottom of the down spout and set your rain barrel underneath.I attached a hose to the faucet at the bottom of the barrel and ran it around the side of the house to the front where I need it, but you could just as easily skip the hose all together and save yourself $15.00.
[source] Roughneck Rain Barrel.
Raised beds are the perfect way to start your own garden. Fruits, vegetables, flowers and shrubs can all thrive in the raised bed environment. The popularity of raised beds is on the rise because of their many benefits – reduce soil erosion, the ease of access to control weeds and pick vegetables, creation of a warmer soil temperature in the spring, plus many more.
Follow this guide to learn how to create your own raised bed garden. From the building materials to the vegetables – We dive into everything you will need to create a flourishing raised bed.