Poisonous Animals You Can’t Eat

Survival manuals often mention that the livers of polar bears are toxic due to their high concentrations of vitamin A. For this reason, we mention the chance of death after eating this organ. Another toxic meat is the flesh of the hawksbill turtle. You recognize them by their down-turned bill and yellow polka dots on their neck and front flippers. They weigh more than 275 kilograms and are unlikely to be captured. 

POISONOUS ANIMALS YOU CAN'T EAT

Many fish living in reefs near shore or in lagoons and estuaries are poisonous to eat, though some are only seasonally dangerous. The majority are tropical fish; however, be wary of eating any unidentifiable fish wherever you are. Some predatory fish, such as barracuda and snapper, may become toxic if the fish they feed on in shallow waters are poisonous. The most poisonous types appear to have parrot-like beaks and hard, shell-like skins with spines and often can inflate their bodies like balloons. However, at certain times of the year, indigenous populations consider the puffer a delicacy. 

Blowfish

Blowfish or puffer (Tetraodontidae species) are more tolerant of cold water. You find them along tropical and temperate coasts worldwide, even in some of the rivers of Southeast Asia and Africa. Stout-bodied and round, many of these fish have short spines and can inflate themselves into a ball when alarmed or agitated. Their blood, liver and gonads are so toxic that as little as 28 milligrams (1 ounce) can be fatal. These fish vary in color and size, growing up to 75 centimeters in length. 

Triggerfish

The triggerfish (Balistidae species) occur in great variety, mostly in tropical seas. They are deep-bodied and compressed, resembling a seagoing pancake up to 60 centimeters in length, with large, sharp dorsal spines. Avoid them all, as many have poisonous flesh. 

Barracuda

Although most people avoid them because of their ferocity, they occasionally eat barracuda (Sphyraena barracuda). These predators of mostly tropical seas can reach almost 1.5 meters in length and have attacked humans without provocation. They occasionally carry the poison ciguatera in their flesh, making them deadly if consumed. 



Other Dangerous Sea Creatures

The blue-ringed octopus, jellyfish, and the cone and auger shells are other dangerous sea creatures.

Blue-Ringed Octopus

Most octopi are excellent when properly prepared. However, the blue-ringed octopus (Hapalochlaena lunulata) can inflict a deadly bite from its parrotlike beak. Fortunately, it is restricted to the Great Barrier Reef of Australia and is very small. It is easily recognized by its grayish white overall color and iridescent blue rings. Authorities warn that all tropical octopus species should be treated with caution, since many have poisonous bites, although the flesh is edible. 

Jellyfish

Jellyfish-related deaths are rare, but the sting they inflict is extremely painful. The Portuguese man-of-war resembles a large pink or purple balloon floating on the sea. It has poisonous tentacles hanging up to 12 meters below its body. The huge tentacles are actually colonies of stinging cells. Most known deaths from jellyfish are attributed to the man-of-war. Other jellyfish can inflict very painful stings as well. Avoid the long tentacles of any jellyfish, even those washed up on the beach and apparently dead. 

Cone Shell

The subtropical and tropical cone shells (Conidae species) have a venomous harpoonlike barb. All are cone-shaped and have a fine netlike pattern on the shell. A membrane may possibly obscure this coloration. There are some very poisonous cone shells, even some lethal ones in the Indian and Pacific oceans. Avoid any shell shaped like an ice cream cone. 

Auger Shell

The auger shell or terebra (Terebridae species) are much longer and thinner than the cone shells but can be nearly as deadly as the cone shells. They are found in temperate and tropical seas. Those in the Indian and Pacific oceans have a more toxic venom in their stinging barb. Do not eat these snails, as their flesh may be poisonous.

 

[source]

 

Why Try Body Armor?

As this is the first post I’ve had about body armor, we’ll start with a little bit of history:

Bullet-Proof-Vest

The modern form of body armor has its Western origins in Italy and England in the mid- to late-1500s. From there, we move on to various updated forms of body armor, paying
particular attention to forms of “bulletproof vests,” experimenting with steel breast plates and cotton padding. The greatest shift occurs with the discovery of properties leading to the creation of Kevlar® in the 1970s. The synthetic fibre known as Kevlar® is extremely strong, while having the benefit of being lightweight. This revolutionary discovery lead to the advancement of improvements with body armor, allowing for a less restricted frame of movement while being exceedingly strong. Though the name Kevlar is synonymous with bulletproof vests, there are similar aramids used to create vests, such as Twaron and Heracron.

There are various types of body armor on the market, with different levels of strength, as outlined by the NIJ. The NIJ takes care to note the difference between bullet proof and bullet resistant. Although the types of ammunition increase incrementally as the armor level goes up, as armor cannot protect against every type of ammunition, they thus cannot be called bulletproof. In fact, “an extremely small percentage of cases, a round can even go through a vest that it is rated to stop,” meaning that one must exercise reasonable precaution even while wearing a form of body armor.

Although the Level IIA offers the lightest weight, and thus is easiest to conceal, it may not be an optimal choice for your protection needs. For comparison purposes, the vest most commonly worn by police officers is a Level II. Interamer offers a pretty comprehensive chart outlining the specific weapons and ammunitions each armor level will cover. As the protection level increases, so too does the weight of the vest. You should be taking that fact into account when it comes to choosing your vest – if your vest is too heavy to comfortably wear, you’ll likely forgo wearing it altogether.

Another important thing to keep in mind about your body armor is its longevity. Though the NIJ “rates for five years of service,” that ends up depending on how often it’s worn. A vest worn at least semi-daily will have more wear than one worn sporadically, so further inspection is required. Related to this, due to wear and weather conditions weakening the ballistic fibers, the strength of your vest will end up dwindling over time. As it is unsafe to buy a used vest because of this, I wouldn’t recommend trying to sell it either.Teijin Aramid, the company that produces the synthetic fiber known as Twaron offers a buy-back program of vests. The materials are recycled and used as an “asbestos replacement.”

Provided you care for and wear them properly, a bullet resistant vest could end up being a worthy investment. So long as the vest is fitted properly, it has the benefit of offering additional protection in case of vehicle crashes. If you’re realistic about what a bullet resistant vest could do for you, the positives of owning (and more importantly wearing) one certainly outweigh the negatives.

No Gutters On Your House – Create a “Drain Barrel” (Rainwater Collection System)

Gutterless Rain Barrel - a
 
 
 
 
 
This is a great idea for capturing rainwater for your home, garden or even at your bugout location. It comes in handy in places where you may not be able to tap a well or water source directly.
 
I wanted to share instructions on how to build a “drain barrel” for those of you who may not have gutters on your house.  This project is most useful for those of us who have a clearly-defined gouge in our wood chips where the water pours off the roof.
 

Step 1:

 
Purchase three cedar decking boards and screw them together in the shape of a trough. Seal all joined edges with a clear silicone caulk.
 
 

Step 2:

 
Obtain containers in which the capture the rainwater; it would be best to find containers with about a 2″ opening.
 
 

Step 3:

 
Line up the containers and measure the distance between the center of the containers’ openings. Leave about 1/2″ per container for expansion.  Measure the diameter of the container’s opening and use a hole saw (attached to the drill) to make holes in the trough.
 
 

Step 4:

 
Purchase a 10′ length of PVC pipe. It should be slightly less in diameter than your hole. Count the number of holes and divide evenly. Cut the PVC into equal lengths.  Purchase a narrowing PVC conduit to glue to the top of your pipes.  Drill two holes in the widest part of the conduit and use a miter saw to remove the material between the holes. This will make a slit to help drain the water into the pipe and ultimately into your container.
 
 

Step 5:

 
Construct some simple “feet” to attach to the ends of the trough. If you drill a hole in the middle of the end of the trough, you will be able to swivel the trough up-side-down on the lag bolt to prevent snow from weighing the trough down during the winter.  Dig a hole on both ends for the “feet”, level the trough, and add concrete to prevent the structure from moving during a hard rain.
 
 

Step 6:

 
Rake the area under the trough so that you can remove the containers easily. Insert the PVC pipe, and add metal menders if you like to ensure the container’s slit stays level with the trough. When it rains, the water will be directed from the trough, into the PVC pipe and then into your container.  When the container is full, lift the PVC pipe out of the mouth of the container, remove the container, and water your plants.  When the container is empty, put it back under the trough and slip the PVC pipe back down into the mouth of the container.  If you like, you can purchase a rain barrel with which to pour the full containers.
 
 
 
 

How To Tie Fishing Knots

Fishing knots are created to be tied with either a mono or a coated or un-coated braided line and should have the ability to pass through fishing rod eyes and rings as well as a fishing rig. For that reason they need to be as small and as strong as possible. Learning a new knot takes patience and practice. Some knots may seem challenging at the beginning but with some practice you will soon tie all these knots for fishing like a master.

Fishing line knots must be pulled extremely tight before it is used. To ensure fishing knots tighten smoothly, and to help minimize the amount of heat generated, the knot should be moistened with either water or saliva. Trim the ends of all knots closely against the knot. A nail clipper is a very good tool for this purpose.

 “Click for more resources on learning how to fish”

Some of the most popular knots for fishing include the Palomar Knot (one of the well-known fly fishing knots), Nail Knot, Blood Knot, Clinch Knot and the Knotless Knot. The different fishing knots all have their own unique uses and it is wise to learn as many fishing line knots as possible to make sure that you have the right fishing knot for the right situation.

The Tie-Fast Knot Tool is a handy little tool that ties several different types of fishing knots. These fishing knots are quick to tie and they are very strong.

How to tie Fishing Knots – Snell Knot

In this fishing knots video you get some good tips on snelling and flipping plus you get to learn how-to tie a Snell Knot

Great Fishing Knot resource CLICK HERE

See more knots: source

Gardening Top Tip From YZS

Gardening Top Tip: Tomatoes need calcium to achieve their full flavor potential, and calcium is often greatly lacking in our soils. 95% of a dry eggshell is calcium carbonate.

When planting your tomato plants crush up (to powder) about 4 or 5 egg shells and put them in the bottom of the hole. Then plant your tomato on top. They’ll provide calcium and prevent blossom end rot.

egg shells for your garden

See Which Vegetables to Grow During Summer : Click Here

If you are looking for vegetables to grow during summer, these should be the ones you must consider. Plant Heirloom Seeds : Survival Seeds

The Vital Importance of Staying Hydrated: How Dehydration Impacts Your Body

Drinking enough water is essential for maintaining good health, especially in survival situations. This infographic highlights the crucial role that water plays in keeping our bodies functioning properly, as well as the harmful effects of dehydration and its implications for our overall well-being. Make sure you stay hydrated to keep your body in top shape!

 

Infographic SOURCE

How To Make Your Own Vertical PVC Planter

Short on space for your garden? Go vertical. Upright planters let those short on space still experience the joys of gardening. I’m so glad that there are options out there! The Owner Builder Network has put together a fantastic tutorial on how to make one of your own from PVC pipe.

Do It Yourself, How to make your own vertical garden in a small space.

Here’s a step by step guide on how to make your own vertical planter.

DIY Vertical Planter

Materials:

– Any length 100mm-150mm (4″ – 6″) diameter PVC or any other kind of pipe
– Potting mix and compost
– Plants (not large plants or bushes)
– Large pebbles of about the same size for added support/stability
– A drip irrigation pipeline (or you can simply water from the top and it will trickle down) *

Tools:
– A drill and circular drill bit OR
– A jigsaw if you don’t own the above
– A hacksaw (if pipe needs to be cut down)
– Marker pen

Materials and Tools

Important:

A minimum of 25% of your above ground height needs to be below ground, to ensure stability. e.g. if you want your planter to be a metre high then the overall length of your pipe must be 125cm (or more).

How to:

If you are using an off cut or leftover material from a previous job, then the size and height of your project have already been determined for you.

If you are buying the materials you need to decide on the height and width of the pipe. For a 100mm pipe it is recommended to have only one hole in a horizontal row so the plants have enough room for their roots to grow. For 150mm pipes you can have up to 3 holes in each horizontal row depending on which plants you choose (three holes for flowers only, the rest either one hole or two).

Using a marker pen, mark out the holes you want to cut for your plants using the guidelines above. The size of the hole directly depends on the plants type and size.

Using the markings, cut the planting holes using either a hand drill with circular drill bit or a jigsaw.

Cutting the holes...

Set up the pipe in a large pot or directly into the soil, using the pebbles for additional stability.

Set up the pipe in a large pot or directly into the soil.

Finally, put the compost and soil into your pipe and start planting.

Keep the water up to your plants and sit back and reap the rewards.

* Because the planters hold only a limited amount of soil, it is essential you keep the water up to your plants. If you are relying in watering only at the top of the pipe, you’ll find that the plants at the top will get plenty of water but those at the bottom will get a lot less dry. That’s fine if you plant accordingly, but the best solution is to insert a weeper hose into the main pipe. This can be purchased or simply made by using 1″ conduit drilled with weep holes down it’s length. Wrap this inner conduit in geo-fabric or weed-cloth to prevent it getting blocked over time.

[source]

 

Homemade Sling-Bow

by Kayak Kid

Picture of Homemade Sling-Bow
In this DIY I will be showing you how to make your very own sling-bow.  A sling-bow is basically a slingshot that’s altered to shoot arrows.  They are pretty powerful depending on what materials you use to construct them with, and can be made on a very slim budget. So without further ado lets begin!

Step 1: What You’ll Need

Picture of What You'll Need
You’ll need:

  1. A sling shot
  2. A golf tee
  3. An O-ring
  4. Two medium zip ties
  5. An old beat up arrow
  6. A few strips of duck tape

Optional:

  1. Whisker biscut

Step 2: The sling shot

Picture of The sling shot
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The first thing you need to do is to prep the sling shot.  The first step in doing this is to take off the existing elastic bands, and discard them.  Next take your heavy duty replacement bands and trim them until there’s 1 inch of band for every 5 inches of arrow.  For example I trimmed my bands to 5 1/2 inches, and they work perfectly with my 25” arrows.  Next put your bands on and leaving a quarter inch to a half inch of extra band extending at the end.  To test pull it back to it’s max draw and have someone measure the distance from the pocket to the extra bit of band on the sling shot.  You want this number to be less than the length of the arrow by one or two inches.

Step 3: The Arrow Rest

Picture of The Arrow Rest
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The arrow rest is what is going to hold the arrow before and during the release.  You want the O-ring, to be perfectly vertical, so to do that you first need to put one of the zip ties through the O-ring and then around the end tag of the elastic band like in the picture above. Don’t tighten it all the way yet, we’ll get to that later. Then next to get the ring to stand vertical you need to counter twist the other zip tie. If you are confused at this point just reference the pictures above.  Now tighten the zip ties until the ring is right in the center, and vertical.

Step 4: Optional: Whisker Biscuit

Picture of Optional: Whisker Biscuit
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Attaching a whisker biscuit is optional, but will help your accuracy and help preserve your arrow fletchings.  To do this put a rubber band around your O-ring using a small zip tie, like in the picture. Then slide your whisker biscuit into place.

Step 5: Arrows

Picture of Arrows
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The arrows I use are just some carbon fiber arrows I out grew or some that just have bad fletchings.  First you need to remove the fletchings and knock.  The knock should pull out with a pliers, and the fletchings are easy to remove using a pocket of your hunting knife.  You should by now have an arrow striped of everything except it’s Insert.

Step 6: Fletching The Arrows

Picture of Fletching The Arrows
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To fletch the arrows I use duck tape.  This is the best, cheapest, way I found to do it. First rip a section of duck tape about 2-3 inches long. Next crease the duck tape in the middle leaving a little bit not stuck together at the top. Then stick that part to the arrow shaft about 1 to 1-1/2 inches from the end were the knock use to be. You will get better flight and accuracy if you angle your vane’s to make the arrow spin, but it isn’t required for good performance.

Step 7: Reapeat

Picture of Reapeat
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Once you have repeated this to all three to five sides you are ready to cut out the actual shape your vane/feather will be. I like to use a downsized version of the original vane’s shape, and make normally three of these.

Step 8: The Nock

Picture of The Nock
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For this I found that hot gluing a golf tee into the shaft is the best way to go.  Shooting arrows with the standard nock is OK but it seem to put more stress on your fingers, and can sometimes slip out. The last thing to do after this is to screw in your point.
Now you’re all set to shoot!  I hoped you enjoyed this instructable and wish to see more in the future.